How To Visit Edinburgh In Winter: An Essential Travel Guide
Planning on visiting Edinburgh in winter but still trying to figure out what to expect? The Scottish capital is our home, and in this post, I’m sharing my experiences of the city during the colder months so you can plan your trip, know what to pack - and how to stay cosy when the chill hits!
A trip to Edinburgh in winter is as magical as it gets.
A glorious time of year to visit, there’s something undeniably special about winter in the Scottish capital – the summer crowds have faded, yet the city remains as lively as ever. The cafes get even cosier while pubs spark up roaring fires and steaming mugs of hot chocolate become necessary for warming cold fingers.
At the start of the season, Edinburgh’s iconic Christmas Markets arrive with a festive bang - a flurry of fairy lights, the tempting smell of mulled wine, ice skating, New Year fireworks, and elaborate decorations loved by locals and visitors alike.
Then, with the celebrations over, the city quietens. With fewer visitors, popular spots like Victoria Street are less crowded, and travellers keen to take photos are guaranteed beautiful images without the masses.
Having lived in Edinburgh for 15 years, this is, without a doubt, my favourite time of year in the city.
Like equally wonderful and wintry Copenhagen, from December onwards, the city’s cobbled streets resemble a scene from a book adorned with charming shopfronts, twinkling lights, and inviting eateries. Yes, you’ll want to carry an umbrella.
And a warm coat is a must; after all, Edinburgh is further north than Moscow, and winter arrives with a chilly bite.
Yet the weather is rarely a problem. In fact, rainy days only add to the timeless lure of the city’s streets and historic facades; this city embraces moody vibes and looks all the better for them. Iconic viewpoints like The Vennel, Victoria Street, and old town cityscapes take on a life of their own in winter and exude an almost impossible charm.
Every winter, I’d look forward to that moment when darkness enveloped the capital in the early evening, and my wander home from work involved a detour down the Royal Mile in all its Charles Dickens glory.
Though Scotland has many wonderful winter destinations, Edinburgh will always be my go-to city. Whether planning a city break, a weekend away, or a fun day trip, there’s plenty to do around the city, from slow days in museums to lively afternoons on whisky tastings.
This is our guide to Edinburgh in winter.
Quick View: Where To Stay IN Edinburgh This Winter
If you’re booking a trip to Edinburgh and want to know where to see, stay, and eat - we have you covered. Below are some of my favourite hotels, tours, and more!
Hotels:
The Edinburgh Grand | for the best city centre hotel.
Market Street Hotel | for the best old town location.
Righ Residences | for the best modern city-centre apartments.
Virgin Hotels | for luxury in the historic old town.
Travel tip: While you won’t need a car in Edinburgh, driving yourself is the best way to explore the rest of Scotland. We use Discover Cars for rental cars because they offer full coverage insurance, trusted companies like Hertz, Enterprise, and Sixt, and have transparent pricing. Book your rental car with Discover Cars here.
Edinburgh in winter
A Note on Edinurgh’s Winter weather
Edinburgh’s weather is best described as “unpredictable” between December and March.
Still, it is most likely to deliver either (a) gloomy, oh-so-atmospheric vibes with rain showers and haar (mist) or (b) magical frosty days with blue skies, freezing temps, and occasional snowy showers.
Both are equally wonderful.
But it’s best to be prepared for whatever Scottish elements show up. For example, early this November, the city experienced a severe snowfall that brought the city centre to a standstill, with freezing temperatures dropping to -4, slippery roads, and slushy pavements. The snow didn’t last long, but it made for an unbelievably cold day out.
While you should check the weather before your trip, I recommend always packing a waterproof jacket, an umbrella, and warm layers.
Comfortable, waterproof footwear is also a good idea; Edinburgh is perfect for wandering, and you’ll be clocking up some serious steps!
Should the winter weather take a turn for the worst, don’t worry.
Edinburgh is at its most beautiful when the rain or snow makes an appearance, and the city’s streets are especially wonderful when those snowy flurries sweep through.
Plus, there are heaps of cosy cafes and coffee shops to warm up in (you can find my favourites here). Plus, an array of brilliant museums and galleries, indoor attractions like Real Mary King’s Close, and excellent whisky tours – all fantastic options if you need to hide from the Scotttish elements.
In the evening, be prepared for the darkness to roll in early.
Edinburgh is considerably further north than you may think and daylight hours are significantly fewer from November onwards. Expect sunrise around 9am and sunset from around 3pm, which means being organised when seeing the city’s pretty streets and photogenic places during daylight hours.
What to see & do during the winter months
1. Visit Edinburgh’s Prettiest Streets
Visiting Edinburgh during winter slightly differs from the summer season, and the best part about this chilly time of year is the lack of crowds in the city’s most popular and beautiful places.
With the historic old town, new town, and city centre attractions all receiving fewer visitors in the winter months, getting around is quicker, taking photographs is easier without throngs of other people, and getting a seat in cosy cafes is simpler.
After a decade of living in the city, I’ve created this self-guided Edinburgh walking tour, which is ideal for those wanting to catch the highlights.
Plus, as a quick guide, be sure to visit these pretty places:
New Town
Circus Lane, Stockbridge
Stockbridge Village, New Town
Dean Village, New Town
Calton Hill, New Town
Old Town
The Vennel, Old Town
Grassmarket, Old Town
Royal Mile, Old Town
Lawn Market, Old Town
Greyfriars Bobby, Old Town
2. Johnnie Walker Whisky Experience
However, after embracing the colder temps while wandering the atmospheric streets, you’ll absolutely want to warm up and include time indoors during your winter trip. After all, you’ll likely be cold, wet, or windswept at some point during your Edinburgh visit!
One of my favourite places to visit in Edinburgh is the excellent Johnnie Walker Whisky Experience. Located on Princes Street, in the heart of the city centre, this modern whisky experience includes an immersive tour, tasting, rooftop bar with stunning views, and an exceptional restaurant.
Scotland’s national drink, a whisky tasting is a must while in the capital, and this contemporary spot is super fun.
The immersive tour lasts 90 minutes and you’ll learn how Johnnie Walker makes its award-winning whisky through interactive rooms and live performances, all while sipping on delicious drinks. Even if you think you don’t like whisky, I guarantee you’ll be a convert by the end of the tour!
Be sure to book your Johnnie Walker Experience tickets in advance to guarantee a spot; this popular experience and often sells out.
3. Real Mary King’s Close
Another indoor option, the incredible Real Mary Kings Close tour is a must for history lovers.
Discover the capital’s ancient history in this underground tour, which takes you beneath the Royal Mile and onto Edinburgh’s only preserved 17th-century street. Following an expert guide, you’ll learn about the people who lived here, the myths and legends, and the darker side of Edinburgh’s past including the plague.
For me, visiting these ancient streets and witnessing what life was like over 400 years ago was a real eye-opener. Walking on the centuries-old cobbled streets genuinely gave me chills. The character guides were perfect, and it was quite honestly like stepping back in time.
This award-winning hour-long tour is one of the best experiences in the city, and because of that, it’s often fully booked. Book your tickets in advance to guarantee a space and skip the queue.
4. National Museum of Scotland
Continuing with our indoor-themed attractions, one of my absolute favourite places to visit in Edinburgh is the National Museum of Scotland.
Only a short walk from the top of Victoria Street, inside, you’ll find a vast collection of antiquities and artefacts, including Dolly the Sheep, and interactive exhibits for kids. However, even if you’re not interested in the history part, pop in to see the impressive atrium; it is bright and light, with an excellent little cafe on the balcony.
The National Museum is open daily from 10am to 5pm. And, best of all, entry is free.
5. National Portrait Gallery
The National Portrait Gallery is one of my favourite Edinburgh places to visit; the interior is stunning.
Art-wise, you’ll find portraits of famous Scots, from Robert Burns to Billy Connolly.
But even if you’re not an art lover, you’ll absolutely want to experience the zodiac ceiling in the Neo-Gothic Great Hall - over 2,000 golden stars and 47 constellations are on display. It is utterly magical, plus the cafe is super cute and serves lovely cakes.
The gallery is on Queen Street, an easy walk from the city centre.
As with all of Scotland’s galleries and museums, it is open daily from 10 am until 5pm and is free to enter.
6. Edinburgh Castle & Esplanade
If you’re a history lover, you’ll want to visit Edinburgh Castle.
Located atop an ancient volcano, the castle is an iconic sight that dominates the city skyline. Once home to Mary Queen of Scots, it now houses exhibitions and rooms showcasing 3,000 years of Scottish history, including banquet halls and royal bedrooms.
However, if that’s not your thing, you’ll still want to visit the Castle Esplanade.
Free to enter, you’ll be rewarded with the best view of the city. It’s a popular place with old canons, castle walls, and panoramic views (in winter, this can be a windy spot, so dress warmly!) Simply follow the cobbled Royal Mile to the top, where you’ll find the Esplanade and ancient Lawnmarket.
For those of you looking to visit Edinburgh Castle, be warned - this is one of the most popular attractions in the city and frequently sells out no matter the time of year. You’ll want to book entry tickets in advance—they cost £35 per person but include a guided walking tour with an expert guide.
7. Warm up in A cafe
When you’ve had your fill of sightseeing, there’s only one thing left to do - warm up with a hot chocolate or coffee.
There are excellent cafés and coffee shops scattered around the city, but the best ones are independently owned, serve speciality roasts, and offer aesthetically pleasing interiors.
My personal favourites include The Milkman, a hotspot on Cockburn Street, La Barantine, a French patisserie on Victoria Street, and The Bonnie Barista on Castle Street. While hot chocolate lovers should head directly to Knoops also on Victoria Street for the most delicious cups of velvety smooth hot chocolates in Scotland (dangerously moreish).
But you won’t need to wander far to find a fantastic café; much like Copenhagen, there’s one on every corner, and each neighbourhood has a “go-to” option with a devoted following.
Follow your feet until the smell of freshly roasted coffee tempts you inside!
Read next: Edinburgh’s Best Coffee Shops | From A Local
8. Festive markets
Though it only lasts for around a month, it would be remiss of me not to mention Edinburgh’s Christmas Markets.
Free to visit, these markets take over the city centre every winter.
From the end of November onwards, the capital becomes a German market-inspired winter wonderland, with rides, food stalls, festive souvenirs, and heaps of mulled wine. The largest market is spread across Princes Street Gardens, but there are also smaller markets to visit in other parts of the city.
Read my guide to the best five Edinburgh festive markets to find out more.
9. Festive Afternoon Tea
Equally festive are the gorgeously over-the-top decorations amongst Edinburgh’s restaurants and hotels.
Very much worth a visit, you’ll spot these elaborately decorated doorways from late November to early January. Be sure to check out:
The Dome for its world-famous festive garlands and huge Christmas tree
The Edinburgh Grand’s stunning doorway, nutcracker soldiers, and a wonderful Christmas Tree.
Ivy on the Square for fun, festive scenes, often including polar bears and snowmen.
The best way to experience these places is to book a festive afternoon tea well in advance and soak in the twinkling atmosphere!
You’ll also find Edinburgh’s prettiest streets embrace the festive spirit with glittering displays and spectacular lights. Don’t miss the lights on Victoria Street and Cockburn Street (both easily accessible from the Royal Mile) and the grand Christmas Tree on The Mound.
Cold weather day trips
If you want to explore further afield, winter is a gorgeous season across Scotland, with dramatic landscapes and snowy mountains as standard.
Edinburgh makes a fantastic base for day-trippers who don’t want to hire a car, and tour buses depart from the city most days. You can read about our favourite day trips and tours but some wonderful winter options include:
The route north through Glencoe is exceptionally breathtaking at this time of year, and you’ll most definitely benefit from the lack of crowds. However, be prepared for even colder temperatures and snowy flurries, so dress accordingly.
I love the Fife coast in winter. Though often windy, the beaches are quietly beautiful, and nothing beats getting wrapped up and tackling the more manageable parts of the coastal path. I recommend a trip to the quaint village of Crail and the excellent eateries in St Andrews.
Closer to the city, the tiny hamlet of South Queensferry is a quaint little haven full of cafes and glorious views over the iconic Forth bridges.
