A Guide to Portree, Scotland | Skye’s Harbour Town
Planning a trip to the Isle of Skye and wondering what to do in Portree, Scotland? I’ve spent a week in Skye’s capital town and I’m sharing the best things to do in Portree, the best hotels, and where to eat.
There’re heaps of wonderful places to visit on the Isle of Skye – but vibrant Portree, Scotland is easily one of the best.
This beautiful harbour town combines a quintessential island experience of white washed cottages and big views, with essential modern amenities.
Both the island’s capital and largest town, Portree’s winding streets host a sprinkling of independent little shops, an abundance of boutique hotels, and cafes selling incredible food.
Yet despite these modern-day luxuries, Portree is still a town of history.
This is especially true of the iconic harbour, with a past as colourful as the buildings.
Whilst views over the surrounding hills & mountains are a constant reminder that Skye’s untouched landscape is never far away – few places exist which are so pristine and wild.
In this guide, I’m sharing everything you need to plan the perfect stay or visit, including all the best things to do in Portree Scotland.
Portree essentials
Stay: you’ll find the best hotels in Portree on Booking.com
Car rental: book the cheapest car rental on Rentalcars.com
Must do: this full day tour of the Isle of Skye, including the magical Fairy Pools, Dunvegan Castle, Neist Point, and the Fairy Glen.
From Edinburgh: this incredible 3-day tour from Edinburgh visits Skye as it explores the Highlands.
From Inverness: this Skye day trip from Inverness visits the Isle of Skye’s best spots.
Is Portree, Scotland worth visiting?
If it’s your first time on the Isle of Skye and you’re looking to explore some of the island’s most famous places, then Portree is absolutely worth visiting.
This closeness to Skye’s best and most popular landscapes is undoubtedly one of the biggest advantages to visiting Portree and make this small town an excellent base for exploring all Skye has to offer.
Then there’s the amenities. Whilst Portree is best known for its harbour, it’s also packed with boutique hotels and foodie treasures.
All in, Portree is absolutely the best place to recover after a day exploring places like Neist Point and the Fairy Pools.
Best things to do in Portree, Scotland
1. Visit Portree harbour
A trip to Portree wouldn’t be complete without a visit (and photograph) of the iconic harbour. Originally developed in the 18th century as a fishing port (though the town itself is much older), the famous engineer Thomas Telford would later extend the harbour - his design is the one we still see today, complete with multi-coloured houses and cobblestone jetty.
Make sure to also walk down the hill to the pier and rocky bay, where the views of the sheltered water are quite special. It’s a really lovely place to eat lunch on a sunny day, with the boats bobbing on the loch and hills towering in the background.
How to photograph Portree Harbour
However, the best way to see the pastel hued terrace around the harbour is actually from a distance. The most popular view is found by walking through the town to Bosville Terrace, where you’ll find an excellent vantage point (here on Google Maps).
2. Visit Portree shops
Whilst on Skye it’s always good to have a rainy-day activity planned - and Portree offers plenty small and cute stores to get lost in. Each a treasure chest of independent brands, lovely homeware, gifts, books, and cute trinkets, so expect to leave with a bag full of lovely goodies! Here are the Portree shops you shouldn’t miss:
ÒR (the Grn) | The biggest ÒR store on our list, I adore this little shop and could have left with loads of goodies. A treasure trove of handpicked books, exquisite homewares, and beautiful crafts.
ÒR (Wentworth St) | The second and more compact ÒR specialises in beautiful, locally made jewellery with a sprinkle of gifts and trinkets.
Home in the Highlands (Quay Brae) | En route to the harbour, Home is packed full of exquisite homeware brands. Find wonderful accessories and cosy home décor inside.
Carmina Gadelica Bookstore | Right on the high street, this bookshop has a great selection of Skye books and walking maps.
the Isle of Skye Candle Company | Located just outside of the town, they offer a beautifully curated range of Skye inspired candles, plus travel books and locally-made homewares.
3. Walk Portree’s Scorrybreac path
No trip to Portree is complete without a walk around the Scorrybreac circuit, on the north side of the bay.
There are fantastic views over the harbour, with Raasay and Loch Portree acting as glorious backdrops further along the loop.
To complete the full 3km circuit, I’d allow around two hours. Although relatively short, there’s a steep uphill section and some muddy parts.
See the Scorrybreac map here.
4. Take a Portree boat trip
Another of the best things to do in Portree is experience Skye’s vast natural landscapes from the sea.
A boat trip from Portree is a unique way to see the islands iconic coastal ridges and volcanic sea walls. Once out in Portree Bay there’s also the opportunity to spot seals, dolphins, and sea eagles.
You can join a boat tour from Portree Harbour – both of the below have excellent reviews:
Stardust | A variety of tours, with a big focus on wildlife and the Skye coastline. See options and book here.
Seaflower | The luxury option, you can also include seafood lunches and prosecco at sunset. See options and book here.
5. Brunch at Birch
There’s a ton of delicious places to eat in Portree. However, this cafe is so good it deserves its own place on our list.
Foodies and coffee enthusiasts alike should make a beeline to Birch, tucked away down an unassuming alley.
An independent café, Birch is home to excellent speciality coffee, a friendly vibe, and the best sweet treats you can imagine. Equally delicious is the small but innovative brunch/lunch menu, with sit-in and take-away delights on offer.
Eating here is easily one of the best things to do in Portree.
Whilst I could have happily devoured the entire menu, I chose the poached chicken on sourdough, which was delicious alongside a killer cinnamon bun. Highly recommend.
Birch is open Tuesday to Saturday from 8.30am till 4pm.
6. Sample Scottish gin
After a day of walking, a good G&T or cocktail in Portree is a must! There are a few bars in town, but these two drinking establishments most definitely stand out from the crowd:
Merchant Bar | The best place in Portree to sample Scottish gin and whisky, Merchant Bar has an extensive drinks menu. Find it here.
Caberfeidh | This edgy little cocktail bar is quite a surprise. Dimly lit, moody and mellow – the vibe is speakeasy, and the cocktail menu is wonderfully eclectic. Perfect for a chilled evening. Find it here.
7. Catch a movie
One of the best ways to spend a rainy afternoon or evening in Portree? At the cinema.
Run by the Isle of Skye Candle Co, Las cinema focusses on screening independent movies, Scottish made films, live streams, and big blockbusters.
Find out what’s on here.
8. Stay in a traditional Skye cottage
Easily one of the best things to do on Skye is stay in one of the island’s whitewashed cottages.
However, these traditional homes are usually in rural areas and are almost impossible to find in Portree. Yet tucked away at Camustianavaig Bay, only 5-miles from Portree, is the utterly wonderful Crofters House.
The beautifully restored cottage makes a stylish retreat with undeniably beautiful views – with all the amenities of Portree just a short 10-minute drive away.
You can book your stay here.
9. Take an Isle of Skye Tour
Portree is an excellent base for exploring the Isle of Skye’s most famous sites.
And if you’d prefer to enjoy the magical landscape without the stress of driving, then book this Isle of Skye day tour and see all the best parts of Skye and most iconic spots, all from the comfort of a luxury coach.
10. Self Guided Day Trip
Alternatively, here are some beautiful places for a day trip, all within a 1-hour drive of Portree:
North
Old Man of Storr | 15-minute drive.
Fairy Glen | 25-minute drive.
Museum of Island Life | 30-minute drive.
Quiraing | 35-minute drive.
South
Sligachan Old Bridge | 14-minute drive.
Fairy Pools, Glenbrittle | 35-minute drive.
West
Dunvegan Castle | 30-minute drive.
Coral Beach | 45-minute drive.
Neist Point | 1-hour drive.
The Best Portree Hotels
There’s no shortage of great accommodation in Portree, with B&Bs and hotels to suit all budgets. For a central location and beautiful interiors, my favourite Portree hotels are:
Restaurants in Portree
For a small town, the foodie scene and restaurants in Portree are unrivalled.
There’s also a heap of incredible cafes and coffee shops dotted amongst the streets, and some of them are amongst the best places to eat on Skye.
From a weekend spent indulging, I have a list of firm favourites like speciality coffee shop Birch, authentic pizzas at Gasta, and burgers at Dulce & Brose. If you’re looking for inspiration, read my guide to restaurants Portree.
Best time to visit Portree, Scotland
Skye is best visited between spring and late autumn.
However, the summer months on the island can be overwhelmingly busy, so you might want to choose the shoulder seasons. Personally, I prefer Skye between April and June, and September through October.
How to get to Portree, Scotland
By car
Assuming you’ll be driving (by far the easiest way to explore Skye), you have three options to reach Portree. Given its island location, which you choose will depend on where you are travelling from:
Skye Bridge | This is by far the easiest way of getting to Portree, as it avoids ferry planning and cost. The route passes through the wild landscape of Kintail before reaching the Skye Bridge in the town of Kyle of Lochalsh. Along the way make a stop at stunning Eilean Donan Castle. Once on the island, the drive to Portree (45-minutes) is straightforward.
Mallaig-Armadale Ferry | Also a popular way to travel to Skye, the ferry from Mallaig takes around 45-minutes. Note that the timetable, and number of sailings, changes between summer and winter.
Stop and photograph the Glenfinnan Viaduct and visit the coastal village of Arisaig on your way to the ferry. Once on the island, you’ll have a longer drive to Portree from the ferry terminal in Armadale (1-hour), including single-track roads.
Check the timetable and book your ticket here.
Glenelg-Skye Ferry | From the remote village of Glenelg, this traditional turntable ferry crosses the Kylerhea straits to reach Skye. It does only operate from April till October, and it does involve a detour on the mainland. However, the unique experience is worth the effort.
Car rental
Rental car | Find the cheapest car rental prices and availability on RentalCars.
By bus
If travelling by bus, these Citylink services from the mainland will take you into the centre of Portree. Be sure to book your tickets in advance:
Glasgow to Portree bus | Citylink 915 takes around 6-hours.
Inverness to Portree bus | Citylink 917 takes around 3-hours.
By private taxi
Whilst those visiting without a car will find limited public transport on Skye, nevertheless you can book a private Portree taxi. These offer private tours all around the island, as well as standard pick-up/drop-off taxi hire. Plus, your driver will have local knowledge of the island and takes on the stress of navigating Skye’s tricky roads. These Portree taxi services have excellent reviews:
Portree, Scotland driving tips
Portree parking | For parking in Portree, your best options are Bayfield (long stay) and The Green (short stay). Now, you need to pay for both options (change or card) and they can get busy. If staying in Portree with a car, I recommend choosing accommodation with guaranteed parking.
Petrol | Portree has a 24-hr petrol station (find it here). Whilst there are a handful of rural fuel stops, they are scarce – therefore I highly recommend fuelling up before setting off for a day’s driving.
Single track roads | Driving on Skye can be challenging, thanks to a network of single-track roads. If you’re new to driving in the highlands & islands, or have never used a passing place, check out my guide to driving in Scotland.
